Briscoe’s, Bell Inn Brook
The Bell Inn is a pretty, garlanded Georgian property in a less visited corner of the New Forest; minutes from the M27, but miles away from anywhere… I pass pigs ambling casually along the road on my way there.
My friend Jenni and I meet in the bar where we are warmed by good citrussy mulled wines and a log fire in the inglenook fireplace. We are spoiled with tasty morsels which include a smooth salmon terrine topped with pickled cucumber with plenty of bite and sweetness before sitting down in Briscoe’s, the Bell Inn’s cosy drawing room of a restaurant – all white linen tablecloths, country prints and soft rose-coloured walls.
I’ve eaten here before and what I like about Briscoe’s is attentive service, consistent quality and exciting flavour combinations. This kitchen takes risks. It starts with a generous amuse bouche of carrot and coriander soup that is smooth, sweet and ever so slightly sour.
It continues with Jenni’s salmon micuit (partially-cooked) cut through with a lentil and coriander sauce for texture and subtle spicing. It’s genius. Meanwhile I have soft seared scallops on a bed of rich pureed shallot and orange salad – a brave combination of sweet and rich lifted with a clever touch of salt. I rinse it all down with a crisp Italian pinot grigio that brings out the flavour of seawater.
Jenni chooses a rioja that is surprisingly light (she comments she could happily drink a bottle) to accompany her main of Orkney fillet steak cooked rare with tasty Jerusalem artichoke lyonnaise, soured cabbage, a potato foam presented in a crisp potato tower and a wild garlic cream. The steak is so outstanding it doesn’t really need any accompaniment, but everything’s eaten none the less, and we ooh and ahh over the potato foam.
Mine is pan-fired halibut on top of earthy spinach, glazed salsify, sauteed girolles and a cream sauce that’s all rich and satisfying.
For desserts Jenni goes with the recommended deconstructed mince pie which comes layered in a brandy glass: rum and raisin pannacotta with stout at the bottom, apple and cinnamon jellies and then coffee cream with a crumbed topping. A spoon passes through the layers easily; it looks as heavy as sin, but the texture’s as light as cloud. Now this is game playing and the chef’s having fun.
I have a raspberry trio: raspberry parfait zapped up with lemon sherbert, a wonderful wincingly sharp raspberry and lemon sorbet and fresh raspberries and eggy lemon curd in a tower of sugar glass. It’s pretty impressive stuff.
We’re so comfortable that we end up having very good cappuccinos and perfect little petit fours which include gooey salted caramel peanuts – I eat them all.
Emma Caulton dines at Briscoe's at The Bell Inn
Fine Dining
Refurbished and refined, Briscoe's fine dining restaurant at The Bell Inn is a shining example of what eating out is all about. Meticulous attention to detail and careful, considered service have ensured that Briscoe's enjoys a loyal following of regulars as well as impressing the critics. It continues to demonstrate its excellence having maintained AA Red Rosette status for the past 18 years. Post-refurbishment you will find that nothing has been spoilt, but rather the individual charm of this New Forest hideaway has been enhanced, with period features preserved and complemented by contemporary, stylish and comfortable design elements.
Expect to find a plethora of seafood, poultry, meat and game on the menu, each dish having been prepared and cooked at the expert hands of head chef, Scott Foy. Drawing from the very best produce that each season offers, the menu is continually developed and at £39.50 per person for three courses, Briscoe's is reasonably priced. Sample the likes of Seared scallops, parma ham and pea puree followed by Scottish fillet steak and seared foie gras, fondant potato, shallot puree and shallot sauce. To complete a fabulous meal, I challenge you to resist the tempting selection of desserts: Morello cherry souffle, chocolate textures to name but a few. For those without a sweet tooth, the selection of British cheeses is a must.
With its smart casual dress policy and non-smoking throughout, the atmosphere here is formal and relaxed without stuffiness or pretension, guaranteeing your evening of business or pleasure will be a great success.
Food & Drink
Traditional Pub
Some 200 years old and happily situated in the quiet hamlet of Bramshaw, The Bell Inn is quite a find. Once you have discovered this gem, you will find yourself returning time and time again, not least because this is quite a multifaceted venue. Retaining its original features, but also redesigned with comfort and style in mind, The Bell is ideal whether you want to get away for the weekend on a romantic break, escape for a few rounds of golf (the owners of the Bell Inn also operate two excellent golf courses next door), get married, enjoy a meal in the fine dining restaurant or simply amble in for a traditional British pub lunch.
Food is available all day every day in the bar and, like the inn's fine dining restaurant Briscoe's, everything is freshly prepared using quality ingredients. Fantastic home-prepared sandwiches like Bacon, brie and cranberry (£6.50) sit alongside nibbles such as marinated olives (£2.50) . If you fancy something heartier, why not tuck into Pondhead farm New Forest sausages mashed potato and onion gravy (£10.50) or the Bell Inn fish and chips, crushed peas and tartare sauce (£11.50).
It seems that the secret to The Bell Inn's success is not much of a secret at all - it is obvious to all - sheer quality.
